Pavlos Kyriakis (Gallina) is well-regarded in Greece`s gastronomic scene, and rightly so. His experience includes stints at renowned restaurants abroad, and he has earned Michelin and FNL stars through his efforts in Greece. Known for the elegantly complex flavours of his dishes and the artful combinations of ingredients, the influential chef has chosen to showcase a new facet of his multi-talented culinary (and not only!) personality to the capital`s audience. At Dodeca Piata (meaning Twelve Dishes), co-founded with Yannis Salpeas (Gorlomi and Vulcanizater) and Manos Stavroulakis (Koyasan, Sugar Killer), he takes his first step as a restaurateur. He has designed a menu inspired by traditional Greek cuisine, often found in local grills and taverns.
Dodeca Piata is set up with traditional white tablecloths in a small, open-hearted, and brightly lit space with a minimalist
aesthetic, reminiscent of Koukaki, where Morning Bar operated until recently. The large glass windows with white curtains, chic bronze chandeliers, a combination
of white and dark wood on the walls, and traditional mosaic flooring provide
warmth and create a unique ambiance, blending elements of old Athens with a modern
tavern feel. During the summer, the glass doors will be opened, allowing tables to be placed on the pavement under the large awning and the shade of the sour orange trees.
The products of the twelve (as expected) dishes on the menu are of high quality, sourced from Greek producers and suppliers. Their flavours are familiar, but the technique behind their creation is a testament to the chef`s culinary expertise. So, the yoghurt is smoked and mixed with cucumber, dill, and olive oil, while the warm cheese curd features feta, anthotiro, spices, and roasted Florina peppers. The fresh tomato comes with grated feta, carob, onion, cucumber and capers, pairing wonderfully with the warm sourdough bread made exclusively for the restaurant by Betty`s Bakery. The crispy fries, cut into round slices, are first poached and then deep-fried over high heat, resulting in a deepened flavour. The beef, mutton, and pork burgers are served well done and fragrant, with only a sprinkling of paprika on the surface as an accompaniment. The gyros makes a sparse appearance on the plate, with chopped onion as the only companion—delicious and crispy, though not as juicy as I would have liked. In contrast, the chicken short ribs are exceptionally juicy, infused with beautiful aromas from the colourful peppers and onions that are roasted alongside them on the spit.
I expected to taste delicious dishes crafted by Kyriakis`s, but I must admit that the remarkable orange pie—the only dessert on the menu—pleasantly surprised me with its amazing texture, spicy, crispy crust, and impeccable syrupiness. It was accompanied by equally delicious Madagascar sugar-free vanilla ice cream sourced from Sugar Killer.
The wine list, curated by Anastasia Karantinou, includes labels from Greek vineyards, with ample selections from Italian, French, and Spanish producers.
"We want to always have twelve options on the menu—high quality, delicious, and as simple as possible," the chef told me. He added that "little by little, as the shop establishes itself," he will update the menu by removing some dishes and adding others, "like a lamb braised in the pot."
Info. Odissea Androutsou 36, koukaki. Tel. 210 9242514
*Photos: Anna Tasioula