Now I know that it doesn`t matter whether our initial destination was the ski center of Mainalon or the lush gorge of the Lousios river, where the monasteries of Filosofos and Prodromos cling to its steep, rocky sides. Nor does it matter if we considered visiting the Kefalari of Ai Giannis to explore the Open-Air Water Power Museum—featuring the watermill, flour mill, rakokazano (a form of distillery for raki), and the old gunpowder mill—but in the end, we found ourselves at the source of the karst spring that flows into the Lousios River.
What prompted me to write about my experiences—what I saw, felt, and tasted in the stone-built village of Dimitsana—was the sum of my encounters. This included the people who guided me, the locals I met on the streets, and a passionate inkeeper-chef who engaged with us, looking us in the eye to ensure we were enjoying his culinary creations.
After wandering for several hours through the cobblestone streets of Dimitsana—among mansions, churches, and squares—and visiting the Public Historical Library, the oldest in Greece. We explored its museum halls, showcasing a collection of rare manuscripts and parchments from the 16th and 17th centuries, alongside everyday objects such as secretary desks, chests, hand-woven textiles, flasks and cooking utensils, as well as gospels, vestments, archiepiscopal mitres, flintlocks, scimitars, scabbards. These artefacts vividly narrate the ancient, medieval, and modern history of this region. It was during this enlightening journey that we suddenly realised that night had fallen.
Thus, the time had finally come for me to get to my point...to share where we dined and where we stayed. Fortunately, we had the foresight to reserve rooms, as the guesthouse where we stayed had just eleven in total. After settling in, we gathered in the restaurant area.
Since I tend to get cold easily, I requested for a table by the fireplace. I settled into the teal sofa beside the flames and began to peruse the menu while enjoying the soothing crackle of the burning wood. I soon realised that our order far exceeded the usual size. It seems that walking through the frosty mountain landscapes had whetted our appetites. This might explain why, as soon as the rustic bread was placed on the table alongside a delicious sun-dried tomato dip, truffle feta cream and Kalamata olives, it vanished in no time. It was then followed by a politiki salad (cabbage, celery, and carrots) with smoked paprika, fresh pomegranate, and bean hummus. The juicy and fluffy beef meatballs, served with handmade potato chips, bouyiourdi cream (a spicy meze with feta cheese, tomatoes, and peppers) and fresh mint also disappeared swiftly, prompting us to oder a second helping—ostensibly to ensure that no one would feel shortchanged.
The salad that followed could easily serve as a light lunch for someone on a diet—fortunately, there was not a single one in our group. In addition to the arugula, lamb`s lettuce, pickled onions, and orange, the salad featured a Messinian sfela cheese with lalaggia (fried pancake) and a decadent carpaccio of pork, complete with a crispy skin.
While I enjoyed most of the dishes I tried, I want to highlight two that particularly stood out to me: the first one is the sour trachanas from Dimitsana, served with wild herbs and marjoram, topped with warm feta saganaki. However, even more impressive was the dish with the the "mushroom magiritsa" (a Greek soup made from lamb offal, associated with the Easter tradition of the Greek Orthodox Church). This dish consisted of a lemony sauce infused with herbs and thick chunks of perfectly cooked lamb picanha. Given the name, I couldn`t help but draw connections between the lagkadinian magiritsa from the nearby village of Lagadia in Arcadia, famously shared by Evi Fetsi during Holy Week in the FNL`s "Recipes" column. However, it`s important to note that the only relationship this dish has with a traditional magiritsa is the proximity of the two regions. The magiritsa accompanying our picanha was, in fact, a fragrant emerald mushroom sauce. Immediately, I thought how difficult it would be for her to taste it due to her allergy to all types of mushrooms.
Ah! Yes, in this region, mushrooms are abundant, and you`ll likely encounter them in various forms, no matter where you choose to dine. For those who avoid them, I recommend trying the delicious wild boar gyro at En Demitsani. It is served on homemade grilled pita and accompanied by a fragrant yoghurt. However, the chef and owner of the guesthouse assured me that if someone informs him of a mushroom intolerance or any other dietary restriction, he will gladly adjust the dishes accordingly. Unfortunately, I cannot much on the rooster pastitsio with paccheri pasta and béchamel made with Graviera from Tripoli, as I didn`t get the chance to taste it—one moment I saw it, and the next, it vanished as if by magic or some culinary mischief...#I sulked.
Desserts were not an issue. We ordered two of each: the roasted Arcadian apples* (from neighbouring Karkalou) with spices, almond crumble, salted vanilla caramel ice cream, and halva espuma, as well as the crispy baklava leaves filled with pistachio mousse, nuts, and cinnamon ice cream. And, rather cheekily, I asked for a raw apple to take back to my room from Stephen Cheka. One day, I must share with you the story of this perfectionist, explaining how he became a chef solely out of passion and love for food, and how he eventually asked his fellow local, Stavros Kousteni, (chef of CesarMezeBar, in Rhodes, which has received two FNL stars) to help design his menus. His true vocation lies elsewhere, which he successfully pursues alongside his culinary endeavours.
Hours later, after we had enjoyed our meal accompanied by a selection of exceptionally curated wines from a list focused exclusively on the Peloponnesian vineyard, which I would comfortably describe as offering great value for money, I finally entered my room. Before closing the curtains completely, I attempted—unsuccessfully—to glimpse the houses of Dimitsana or identify the Lousios Gorge in the darkness. I stayed awake for some time, gazing at the fire in the fireplace and trying to bring to conjure the history of this place, as recounted by the exhibits in the museum. I believe that the last sip of the Titan of Skouras, combined with the warmth of the fire and the comfort of the blanket wrapping around me, helped transport me to the village`s watermill, from where I was "peeping" at the residents of Dimitsana loading gunpowder onto their mules for Kolokotronis...
The next morning, feeling as though I hadn`t "wandered" all night, I stepped outside, refreshed. The landscape was beautifully blanketed in snow. I found myself reflecting once again on the previous night`s dinner, the restful sleep, and the generous breakfast that followed at En Dimitsani. I felt that this two-day gateaway had allowed my inner self to warm up, setting a positive tone as we began our journey back home.
Info: En Dimitsani , Dimitsana Arkadia, tel. 2795 031748, e-mail: info@en-dimitsani.gr site: https://www.en-dimitsani.gr/
Open: The guesthouse is open all year round. The restaurant is open Friday, Saturday, and Sunday. During Easter and Christmas period it is open daily.
*Arcadian apples, officially known as Tripolis Delicious Pilafa PDO apples, are juicy and very crispy, with firm flesh and a matte appearance. Their skin is a striking reddish-green with faint freckles. The aroma is reminiscent of bananas, and their flavour is delightful, offering a pleasant acidity balanced by subtle sweetness.