Trentino is not only one of the most enchanting regions of Italy but also a significant representative of cool-climate winemaking. Here’s double the proof!
The Foradori (pictured) and Pedecastello estates are places that no wine enthusiast would want to leave until the end of their days! Located in the enchanting Trentino—northeast and north of Venice, respectively—they not only neighbour the breathtaking Dolomites but also cultivate vegetables, raise livestock, produce cheeses and cold cuts, and, of course, offer superb cool-climate wines.
The tasting organised by Dameli was theoretically focused on the Foradori winery, but alongside him was friend and colleague Alex della Vecchia with his own Pedecastello, which is produced from just 15 acres of land. One might consider him a support group, but with the quality in the glass, the exceptionally humble young Italian proved he deserved the title of guest star!
Both wineries—along with the entire portfolio of Dameli—lean towards natural approaches, with Pedecastello (which does not add sulphites to any of its wines) pushing this naturalness to the limit. Despite this, none of its wines exhibit the "dirt" and imbalance that plague the overwhelming majority of natural wines.
The
Bianco Riserva 2021 (8/10) leaves no doubt about this. A blend of five varieties (including the lesser-known Bianchetta and Petit Arvine), it ages for one year in a barrel, balancing between freshness and oxidation, while countering the bouquet of almond and flowers with remarkable acidity and a pH of 3.0!
Acidity is also a structural element in the
Elevare Metodo Classico 2016 (7.5/10), a traditionally fermented sparkling wine made from Pinot Nero. The five-year (!) aging on the lees brings toasted notes, smoke, and dried flowers to the glass, yet the freshness still impresses, even if it isn’t accompanied by a persistent flavour.
The final piece of the concert was quiet, red, and answered to the name
Rosso Riserva 2021 (8/10), also sourced exclusively from Pinot Noir. The minimal volatile acidity heightened the intensity of juicy red fruits, while the light palate was so persistent and fresh that no one would bet on it having only 10.5% alcohol or a 12-month maturation in small (old) barrels.
"Hopefully, this tasting will be an opportunity to see Alex`s wines in Greece," I thought, until the Foradori took the stage. The estate, founded in the early 20th century and purchased by Vittorio Foradori in 1939, boasts not only its seven alpine cows but also 340 acres of vineyards, from which it offers a range of 8 wines, with the magnificent Teroldego taking centre stage.
The necessary amuse-bouche for the lavish meal based on the red grape for which the producer is renowned was provided by the
Fontanasanta 2023 (7.5/10). This white, aged in acacia barrels, comes from another intriguing variety of the region, Manzoni Bianco, which is a cross between Riesling and Pinot Bianco. It is balanced on the palate, with notes of honeysuckle and butter supported by good acidity, resulting in a profile reminiscent of Kidonitsa.
The
Lezer 2023 (6.5/10) is a straightforward, summery red that is largely based on Teroldego (82%). Light and full of aromas of blackberry, it begs for a slight chill, even if that might elevate the "bite" of its tannins even further.
Foradori is the first wine released by the producer back in 1960 and comes from various vineyards and clones of the distinctive grape, with the average age of the vines reaching 30 years. The 2023 vintage (7.5/10) is light-bodied and brimming with aromas of hibiscus, reminiscent of a good Beaujolais. The acidity and freshness naturally dominate this youthful wine, allowing it to reach its peak around 2030.
Foradori`s expertise in Teroldego is expressed through two single vineyard labels, both of which were first released from the 1987 vintage.
The Sgarzon 2023 (8.5/10) comes from the eponymous, sand-rich cru of 2.5 hectares and is aged in amphorae for 8 months. Ethereal yet particularly dense and persistent, it has a peppery sensation where the aromas of cherry and violet dominate, alongside a refreshing mountain essence that ensures it will age well for a decade.
On the other hand, the Morei 2023 (8/10) comes from an equally-sized vineyard cultivated biodynamically. Although maturation occurs in the same Spanish clay vessels, the gravelly terroir imparts a darker, earthier character marked by darker fruit, less acidity, and more tannins. "Morei" means "black" in the local dialect, and the wine`s profile certainly justifies its name!
Are you enchanted by natural approaches? Do you seek out unique varieties? Do you enjoy the characteristics of cool terroirs? Are you exploring lesser-known vineyards? If you answered "yes" to even one of these questions, then do not hesitate to pour a wine from Foradori or Pedecastello into your glass!
Wines from Foradori are imported by Dameli, 6944 772737.