Linen trousers, white and soft-blue shirts, piqué polo shirts and lightweight loafers already make up more than half the wardrobe required for an old-money summer look. Anything that shouts or demands attention, including your fragrance, does not belong to this style. Fabrics should be made from natural fibres, the pieces you wear should have a classic, timeless cut, and, just as importantly, brand logos should be discreet rather than glaringly obvious. Imagine Paul Newman, for instance, wearing a Breton top with the brand name printed in huge letters across the chest, or a simple white T-shirt dominated by an oversized logo. It simply would not work. Fit plays a crucial role, as do quiet colours. In general, if you want to look elegant, you should avoid excess. No man or woman who dresses with obvious aesthetic overstatement ever truly achieves style or elegance.
Linen clothing. Linen has long been associated with masculine elegance, partly because even its natural creasing does not feel aesthetically troubling. Quite the opposite, in fact: it is part of its charm. Choose a linen shirt or trousers in white, pale blue or, for shirts in particular, a soft pastel shade. Linen is perhaps the ultimate summer fabric, as it is highly breathable and has natural temperature-regulating properties. Its relatively open weave allows air to circulate even more freely than cotton, while the fabric absorbs moisture and perspiration without clinging to the body. It also dries quickly, offering a genuine feeling of coolness.
The guayabera shirt. Also known as a Mexican or Cuban shirt, the guayabera, in its most authentic form, is usually made from pure linen or high-quality cotton, and you may well choose to have one made by your tailor. It is defined by its four front pockets, which give it a subtle overshirt quality, while also creating a structured yet comfortable silhouette. Traditionally worn across parts of Latin America and the Caribbean, including by officials, intellectuals and affluent men, the guayabera has also acquired many admirers in Europe, particularly among those who favour classic menswear.
Chino trousers. Chinos are the ideal middle ground between casual jeans and tailored suit trousers. Extremely versatile and comfortable, they are well suited to smart-casual dressing and are usually made from cotton twill. They are defined by clean lines, internal pockets rather than the patch pockets commonly found on jeans, and a button-and-zip fastening. White and off-white shades work particularly well, as do beige, light brown and dark navy, the latter being especially useful for men who wear chinos all year round. The name “chino” comes from the Spanish word for “Chinese”, a reference to the cotton twill cloth that was believed to have originated in China. The trousers were originally developed in the 19th century for British and American military use, before gradually becoming a classic of civilian menswear.
Navy blazer. The navy blazer is quite literally a cornerstone of the old-money summer look. Its history is tied to both British naval dress and the traditions of exclusive rowing and yacht clubs, before becoming associated with the leisure pursuits of the wealthy, from sailing and tennis to rowing, in resorts such as Monaco and the Hamptons. Aesthetically, it works just as easily for a formal dinner as it does for a relaxed evening at a club on the Athenian Riviera. In its summer versions, it is usually cut from lightweight, breathable fabrics such as linen, silk blends or fine Merino wool, often with little or no lining.
Breton top. Tops with horizontal stripes are a true symbol of classic style, combining a sense of refinement, practicality and timeless elegance. The Breton top evokes sailors, travel and leisure boats, all of which have long been associated with ease, status and a certain coastal way of life. Originally linked to French naval dress, it later entered the language of fashion through Coco Chanel in the 1910s and was subsequently embraced by iconic figures from cinema, art and intellectual life, including Pablo Picasso and Jean-Paul Gaultier.
Tortoiseshell frames. If you are going to invest in one pair of glasses for summer, the most authentic choice for the old-money look is undoubtedly a classic tortoiseshell frame. Its natural-looking colour palette, with warm tones of brown, honey, amber and black, works organically with the fabrics of old-money summer dressing: linen, cotton, silk and piqué.
Piqué polo shirt. Piqué polo shirts combine an aristocratic sporting heritage, from tennis to golf, with understated luxury. The textured weave of the fabric adds structure and elegance, making them instantly more refined than a simple T-shirt. Cotton piqué, or petit piqué, was used by tennis legend René Lacoste for the lightweight shirt he introduced as a more comfortable alternative to the stiff tennis shirts of the period. The style was later launched commercially in 1933, helping to link the polo shirt with the world of elegant sporting dress. It is, in many ways, the definition of smart-casual dressing. It can be worn beautifully tucked into linen trousers or chino shorts, but also paired with a lightweight blazer or a cotton knitted jumper draped casually over the shoulders.
The ideal shoes. From the simplest penny loafers to tassel loafers with their decorative fringes, and suede styles in earthy shades, loafers are the ideal shoes for an old-money summer look. Espadrilles are another natural option, although they work best with Bermuda shorts and a linen shirt for an afternoon coffee or a cocktail by the sea. In recent years, boat shoes have also returned to the foreground. Historically associated with the preppy aesthetic of New England colleges, they are worn without socks, with lightweight jeans or Bermuda shorts.