On the ever-busy Varnava Square, Paf arrives with something the neighbourhood had been missing: a relaxed hangout with character and aesthetic clarity, free from unnecessary fuss. Its name is drawn from the initials of Pizza, Aperitivo. Focaccia, while its motto, “We Rise. We Spin. We Serve.”, neatly captures the rhythm of the place.
Yet what truly won me over during my visit was not only the predictably good dough, but the cocktail philosophy. Here, Popi Sevastou has curated a list that demonstrates how imagination and flavour do not require elaborate garnishes or overwrought combinations to shine. Instead, they rely on substance and the integrity of quality ingredients.
The cocktail list is structured around three pillars: Aperitivi, G&Ts and Re-crafted Classics. Across all categories, the common thread is simplicity in presentation that nonetheless delivers real depth of flavour. There are no contrived techniques here, the kind that have grown tiresome and increasingly irrelevant to today’s audience, but rather thoughtful pairings that elevate the drink itself.
I began with the Aperitivi, where Paf’s philosophy becomes immediately apparent. I was particularly taken with the Luxardo Aperitivo version, paired with rose petals and coffee beans. On paper, it is a seemingly simple combination, yet in the glass it proves quietly revelatory: the floral finesse of the rose intertwines with the bittersweet, earthy finish of the coffee, resulting in an aperitivo that is both intriguing and layered.
In the G&Ts, the ingenuity of the list shines through restraint. The Martin Miller’s gin with wasabi and cucumber shrub is a model of balance. Rather than overwhelming the drink, the wasabi delivers a brief, cooling surge that quickly recedes, while the acidity of the shrub lends a clean, palate-refreshing lift. It is a drink designed to accompany food, yet equally enjoyable on its own, thanks to its clarity and composure.
It is within the Re-crafted Classics, however, that flavour truly takes centre stage. The Margarita acquires a distinctly Greek accent with the addition of mandarin and thyme, retaining its bright acidity while developing a more Mediterranean, aromatic profile. The Sour, built on aged Matusalem rum with bitter almond and passion fruit, is clarified with whey to create an intriguing texture and finished with a float of red wine. Here, restraint in execution introduces tannic grip and added complexity, transforming what might have been a fruit-forward drink into something more structured and compelling.
A noteworthy detail, and one we particularly appreciated, is the option to order many of these in mini cocktail format, a trend that fits perfectly with the aperitivo ethos and the spirit of tasting and exploration.
Naturally, these drinks are matched by the excellent dough work of Christos Sarantopoulos. With a 72-hour fermentation, the pizzas at Paf are light, contemporary and easy to digest. The Pizza Aegina, topped with mortadella, fior di latte and pistachio, and the Terra, with Naxos Arseniko cheese, mushrooms and garlic butter, are two telling examples of the creativity that extends well beyond the bar. The same applies to the daytime offerings, where the airy focaccias neatly affirm the “We Rise” element of the restaurant’s motto.
The space itself exudes a relaxed urban aesthetic, while the music, with selections from DJs such as Dear Quentin during the after-hours sets, completes the picture. The wine list, concise and focused on the Greek vineyard, with labels from producers such as Gkirlemi, Douloufakis and Akriotou, stands discreetly alongside the cocktails.
In sum, Paf proves that you do not need to be a dedicated cocktail bar to serve excellent drinks. What you do need is knowledge, imagination and respect for the raw material. The team on Varnava Square appears to possess all three in abundance.
Info: 26 Empedokleous Street, Varnava Square, Pangrati
Tel: +30 211 0087807