T- Oinos: An Intense Blast of Air and Salt

The T- Oinos is undoubtedly the most controversial Greek producer. Naturally, the critiques rarely focus on quality; instead, they tend to highlight the exceptionally high (by local standards) prices of this perfectionist winery in Tinos. 

While debating this is not the focus of the article, my personal view is that ultra-expensive wines are a necessary part of the landscape—simply because there are countless wealthy individuals around the world. As perhaps cynically as it may sound, they are the ones who influence the status and prestige of fine wine. In this context, low prices are not regarded as a virtue; quite the opposite, they can even discourage tastings altogether.

As I often say, “It’s better to be tasted and rejected than never to be tasted at all.”Of course, setting a high price on a wine alone is not enough. The entire image of a winery must truly ‘honour’ the premium narrative it promotes. This involves everything from the meticulous work in the vineyard and the winery, to the consistency and stability achieved both vertically and horizontally over time. It also encompasses broader considerations, including the winery’s overall philosophy, craftsmanship, and even its aesthetic presentation.

Of course, everyone is entitled to a different opinion on the matter, but I had the opportunity to confirm my own perspective about T- Oinos through a delicious variety that included mini vertical tastings of both their white and red wines. These “bites” offer almost a complete picture of the new era introduced by the arrival of the renowned Stéphane Derenoncourt — both as a winemaker and co-owner — alongside the talented and dedicated winemaker, Thanos Georgilas!

The “warm-up” consisted of two rose wines, both truly excellent. The Mavrose 2024 (8.5/10) was so fresh it had barely been bottled, yet it already displayed an expressive aroma reminiscent of angelica, with delicate floral notes. However, the real highlight was its rich yet nervy palate, with bold blackcurrant and spice flavours leading to a brackish, long-lasting finish.

This blend of Avgoustiatis and Mavrotragano is so delicate that it can stand shoulder to shoulder with the Clos Stegasta Rosé 2023 (8.5/10). The premium cuvée features Assyrtiko and Malagouzia alongside red grape varieties, with extended aging on lees and in bottle, which amplifies its complexity. Its rich character, with dried jasmine and vanilla notes, has developed into a deeper, more refined profile. The wine also achieves an exceptional balance between sweetness and acidity, adding to its sophisticated and elegant appeal.

The Clos Stegasta Assyrtiko is a cornerstone of the Tinian wine project, renowned for its striking brackish and persistent mineral finish. The 2023 (8/10) offers a dense, crystalline expression of its terroir, with the characteristic “chalky” texture of the wine still present. However, it also reveals a pronounced alcohol presence, a reminder of how challenging 2023 was for Greek whites.

In contrast, the outstanding 2022 vintage (9/10) flirts with what could be considered "world-class" status. Although less intense than the 2023, it brings an intriguing note of bread crust and delivers an endless finish, promising a solid decade of aging potential.

As it rests in the cellar, the 2021 (8.5/10) absorbs the emotional weight of the vintage. It’s not at its peak, but the candied lemon and pineapple lend an immediate, “drink-it-now” freshness. This sense of immediacy is enhanced by an atypical vanilla-like nuance, which results from the decision not to produce Rare that year, allowing it to be blended into the main cuvée.

The Clos Stegasta Assyrtiko Rare `21 was never released, but the 2023 vintage (8.5-9/10) is set to make its debut in 2025. Although it has yet to fully integrate the barrel, hence the range in rating, it appears unaffected by the year`s challenges. It boasts a rich, floral, tannic profile with impressive length. Currently available is the 2022 vintage (8.5/10), which adds an exotic touch alongside the “bread-like” qualities of the standard 2022, offering more volume and depth. However, it doesn`t quite match the incredible length of its “younger sibling.”

Although I am typically a fan of white wines, the Clos Stegasta Mavrotragano is my favourite from T-Oinos`s esteemed collection, and tasting three vintages helped me understand why. The 2022 (9/10) is especially aromatic and still holds a certain tannic bitterness; however, it offers complex notes of sour cherry, blood, and herbs, with an exceptional length that will comfortably see it through the next decade. The 2021 (9/10) is even more concentrated, with a slightly more balsamic nose, yet leaves you speechless due to its remarkable flavour duration. The 2020 (9/10) is different but equally captivating; its bouquet of violets and sour cherries is reminiscent of Pinot Noir, while its sweetly spiced palate suggests Châteauneuf-du-Pape. These three extraordinary vintages showcase the diverse yet enchanting expressions of this unique Cycladic grape. 

For those of you who read me regularly, you’ve probably noticed that, in my experience, the highest-rated single-vineyard reds from a producer rarely manage to impress me as much as their more modest counterparts. The Clos Stegasta Mavrotragano Rare upholds this trend — while it offers even greater concentration, it also seems to be overwhelmed by heavy oak and pronounced tannins. Some might argue that the wine simply needs more time to develop, and while that may be true, in my opinion, its flavour profile and overall persistence fall short of the greatness of the standard Mavrotragano.

Stylistically, the 2022 (8.5/10), which will be released at the end of the year, highlights notes of violet and cherry, while the 2021 (8/10) is characterised by hints of hibiscus and subtle earthiness. The most full-bodied of the three, the 2020 (8/10), offers flavours of licorice and ripe red fruit.

Tasting 13 wines and averaging over 8.5/10 is no small feat — especially when I am the one assigning the scores! Yet, T- Oinos once again proves its ability to combine exceptional quality with consistent, high-level stability. This further enhances its compelling storytelling and elevates its profile within the Greek wine landscape.