The old advertisement may have proclaimed "40 years of baking," but Tyrrell’s can proudly boast "167 years of winemaking," with the family continuing to make history following the path paved by Edward Tyrrell, the Englishman, in 1858.
Arriving in New South Wales during the gold rush, he settled on a 130-hectare estate in search of liquid gold, with the "shack" he built there still gracing the estate today, serving as a monument to a journey that helped elevate the Hunter Valley as one of Australia`s premier wine regions.
Tyrrell’s is not only one of the oldest producers in the country but also the owner of many of the ancient vineyards in the birthplace of Australian wine, the Hunter Valley. This includes the Old Hillside (pictured), which features Shiraz vines still in production that were planted in 1867! Of course, their wine collection is not solely sourced from New South Wales; they also own an additional 26 hectares in the Heathcote region of Victoria.
Without a doubt, the most iconic label in their range is the legendary Semillon Vat 1, one of the most famous and cellar-worthy white wines in the world. And if anyone wishes to voice objections, the numbers are ruthless, as Vat 1 boasts an impressive collection of 5,500(!) medals and 330 trophies, making it the most awarded wine in the entire country! The nearly subtropical climate of the Hunter Valley is not only suitable but proves to be ideal for the rapid ripening of this unique variety. As a result, the skins do not thicken, meaning that the region`s Semillon does not require oak barrels to "calm" it. However, this does not mean that the Vat 1, which is vinified in stainless steel tanks, does not mature. On the contrary, the finest fruit from the 80-year-old vines ages in the bottle for a full five years before being released to the market.
Having "sliced through" a 20-year-old Vat 1 Semillon at my 50th birthday, I was confident that this mini vertical wouldn’t bring me face-to-face with any readily available vintage, and I was not mistaken. With the current vintage being 2018, it will be many years until 2024 (9/10), with its floral character and typical staggering acidity become accessible. However, the same does not apply to the stunning 2016 (9.5/10), a work of art painted with petrol that is indescribably fine and as long as it is new, rewarding at least another 20 years of aging! The already 12-year-old 2013 (9/10) is equally incredibly fresh, being less... Riesling but more strict, floral, and youthful.
It is not easy to move on from this dreamy Semillon, but the beautiful Vat 47 Chardonnay 2021 (8.5/10) makes the transition easier. Sourced exclusively from the old vineyard Short Flat, this barrel-aged premium cuvée is dense and expressive with aromas of white asparagus, vanilla, and minerals, while being particularly harmonious on the palate. However, if someone wants a more accessible encounter with Tyrrell’s craftsmanship, they can turn to the partially barrel-aged Hunter Valley Chardonnay 2023 (8/10), which comes from various sections of the Pocolbin sub-region. It obviously appears more woodsy, tight, and short compared to the Vat 47, which is more than twice the price, yet it is impressively clean, balanced, pleasant, and smooth.
The Hunter Valley Shiraz 2023 (8/10) is the red counterpart to the Chardonnay, offering similar pleasure, quality, and price. Although it comes from 40-year-old vines in the Hunter, it is not aged in barrels, resulting in a slightly bitter note, which may change in 2-3 years. Otherwise, its aroma is filled with rose, raspberry, and cinnamon, while the taste is soft and easy-drinking.
I don’t think anyone can easily believe that the Rufus Stone 2022 (8.5/10) can ask for so little and deliver so much! Coming from Victoria, this dark, generous Shiraz is named after King William II (Rufus), who was - accidentally? - killed by an arrow from Sir Walter Tyrrell in 1100. Infused with aromas of black fruits, eucalyptus, naphthalene, and camphor, it boasts a rich body, roundness, and abundant fruit, without the rough gym-like style.
For fans of comparisons, the Rufus Stone would be akin to a Côte-Rôtie, while the Old Hillside Shiraz 2019 (9/10) would be more reminiscent of a Châteauneuf-du-Pape. This incredible single vineyard red, from the youngest(!) vines at 50 years old, ages in two old 2,700-litre barrels, acquiring a more "red" character filled with sweet spices. Its palate is particularly rich, yet at the same time, it presents a tender, easy-drinking, and very smooth profile. A great wine that one can acquire for under €40!
The extensive collection from Tyrrell’s inevitably left many other gems out of my glass, such as their innovative Pinot Noir, which was groundbreaking for its time. However, you don’t need to sample all their labels to understand why this historic winery, still operating under the same ownership, has made Hunter Valley wine—and, by extension, Australian wine—renowned worldwide.
Tyrrell’s wines are imported by Oak, 210 6858078.