Six Watches That Stood Out at the Watches & Wonders Exhibition in Geneva

It is clear that there is a shift back towards more discreet case sizes, with the trend for oversized watches continuing to recede. The market appears to be focusing increasingly on diameters between 36mm and 39mm, with an emphasis on practical complications and models that combine durability with elegance for everyday wear. That said, there is still room for more striking, larger statement pieces.

There were notable references to the 1960s and 1970s, alongside a return to two-tone designs, as well as the use of bold colours and distinctive textures. Overall, however, this year’s exhibition reflected a more mature market, where elegance, wearability and technical refinement take precedence.

A total of 65 exhibitors took part in the largest edition of the event to date in Geneva, widely regarded as the global capital of watchmaking. From the hundreds of timepieces presented, we selected six that stood out, each for a different reason.

Bulgari Octo Finissimo 37

The latest iteration of Bulgari’s ultra-thin icon comes in an even more compact format, with a 37mm case and a weight of just 65 grams. It is an impressive proposition, available in four different versions, and powered by an exceptionally slim movement of remarkable technical sophistication, necessitated by the reduced thickness of the case. In this new version, the BVF 100 calibre, while slightly thicker than those used in the previous 40mm models, occupies less overall space. This is an achievement Bulgari has realised through its research into movement architecture, particularly drawing on expertise developed in its women’s watch collections.

A limited edition of 200 pieces, created in collaboration between Hublot and its ambassador, football star Kylian Mbappé. The dynamic design reflects the confidence and presence of the celebrated forward, combining a 44mm white ceramic case with a gold bezel engraved with his well-known motto, “Trust Yourself”. One of the larger, more striking pieces presented at the exhibition.

IWC Big Pilot’s Perpetual Calendar ProSet “Le Petit Prince”

The latest addition to the “Le Petit Prince” collection by IWC Schaffhausen features a 42mm stainless steel case paired with a deep blue dial. At its heart is the Calibre 82665, considered one of the more complex movements in contemporary watchmaking, driving IWC’s new Perpetual Calendar ProSet system. This innovative mechanism allows the calendar to be adjusted both forwards and backwards, a rare technical achievement that highlights IWC’s expertise in perpetual calendar complications.

A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar “Lumen”

The classic Lange 1 by A. Lange & Söhne, first introduced in 1994, has been refined and reinterpreted numerous times over the years. At the exhibition, a new version was unveiled, limited to just 50 pieces. Striking in both design and execution, it features a newly developed precision calibre housed within a 41.9mm case. The perpetual calendar mechanism is engineered to remain accurate without correction until 2100, underscoring the technical mastery behind the piece.

Chanel Monsieur Lion Tourbillon Black Edition

The lion, one of Coco Chanel’s most enduring symbols, has long appeared across the house’s design codes. In this latest iteration of the Monsieur, Chanel presents a fully monochromatic piece with a bold aesthetic, centred around a striking miniature lion motif. The lion is laser-engraved with exceptional precision onto a single piece of titanium, showcasing an impressive level of detail. The caseback, crafted from transparent sapphire crystal, allows a clear view of the movement within.

This model revisits the original L.U.C 1860, first introduced in 1997, and has been reissued to mark the 30th anniversary of Chopard Manufacture in Fleurier. It retains many of the aesthetic codes of the original, while incorporating an updated movement and a 36.5mm polished steel case. The blue-toned dial pays tribute to the river that flows near Chopard’s manufacture, adding a subtle layer of narrative to the design. Overall, it is a piece that draws on the refined elegance and restrained proportions of 1990s watchmaking.