Profitis Ilias Square has now established itself as one of Pangrati’s liveliest dining hubs. Among the cafés, bars and brunch spots lined up shoulder to shoulder along Efranoros Street, a mermaid has recently settled in too, reclining not on a rock, but in a spacious corner.
The contemporary kafeneio Gorgona is the creation of a group of friends well known in the world of hospitality and events, including Manolis Lykiardopoulos, the team behind Profitis, as well as that of Yucatan. The setting brings together modern and traditional elements, with earthy tones, small blue tables spilling out onto the pavement and large glass panels that open up, effortlessly connecting the outdoor space with the compact interior.
The modern kafeneio opened at the beginning of April this year, yet the kitchen team, led by chef Amanda Kontogiorgou-Iakovidi, already seems to have found its rhythm. Mornings at Gorgona begin with eggs and much-loved staples of Greek home cooking, such as pancakes and bougatsa-style pastries. The handmade country-style pies and cheese pastries are available throughout the day, while from early afternoon through to the evening, the menu shifts to well-executed and deeply satisfying Greek meze, served to the sounds of the city and popular Greek songs from past decades.
On my first visit, I tried the roasted eggplant dip, which had a refined acidity, lovely aromas and a subtle smokiness, as well as the rustic tyrokafteri, where the usual spicy kick was notably absent. I enjoyed the hearty, thickly sliced country-style sausage, and particularly the baby roast potatoes with rosemary, mustard and lemon.
The fried bread was a clear display of the kitchen’s skill in the pan. Light and airy with a gentle crispness, it paired beautifully with the paprika and grated feta scattered over the top. The meatballs, flavoured with fresh mint, parsley and oregano, were full of flavour, as was the golden saganaki, which worked very well with the rich fig jam served alongside it.
The vine leaves in the dolmades were cooked impeccably and the filling was delicious, if somewhat modest in quantity. The same could be said of the pie of the day, a spinach and feta pie, where the filling felt a little sparse, although the pastry itself was pleasantly crisp and quite pronounced.
As the menu rightly notes, “there is always room for dessert”, so I tried the fragrant baklava, beautifully soaked in syrup, as well as the galaktoboureko, which had a velvety custard, though the pastry was less crisp than I would have liked.
The drinks list ranges from Greek coffee and espresso to ouzo, tsipouro, wines from the Greek vineyard and cocktails, several of which are also available in half servings. It is a thoughtful touch that will appeal both to those keen to sample a variety of flavours and to those who prefer to pace their alcohol intake.
Info: 35 Efranoros Street, Athens | Tel. +30 210 7014462
Photos: Anna Tassioula
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