Nonnas: An Interesting Bistro in Plaka by Ilias Kiazoli

Filomousou Etaireias Square may sit at the heart of tourist-heavy Plaka, yet Nonnas Athens is anything but touristy. It stands out for its modern, warm elegance among the countless restaurants and cafés in the area.

In her first impressions a few months ago, Thalia Tsichlakis wrote in FNL: “The concept of the menu can be summed up in three words that convey a sense of nostalgia: ‘Old new recipes’. Here, the chef attempts – and succeeds, believe me – to recreate memories of his mother’s and grandmother’s cooking.” And indeed, this is reflected across much of the menu.

Ilias Kiazoli, together with his head chef and long-time collaborator Thomas Patilas, may deconstruct pastitsio and present a more free-form version with paccheri and lightly charred béchamel as a sauce, yet all the flavour is there, along with the comforting memories of home cooking. That same depth of flavour defines the skioufichta pasta with slow-braised goat, although an additional graviera sauce weighs the dish down slightly. The opening dishes are equally strong: the spreads are excellent (such as the taramas with nori powder and lime, or the tirokafteri with roasted peppers and chilli), while even the classic saganaki with aged graviera, served with tomato jam, sage and pistachio, stands out. Throughout, there is clear attention to the quality of the ingredients. In some dishes, however, the desire to move away from familiar labels feels a little overplayed, leading the kitchen slightly off course, as with the pork belly paired with kimchi, lime, soy sauce and coriander, or the boiled vegetables, which lean closer to undercooked than the intended al dente, accompanied by curry.

The desserts change frequently; however, what we tasted falls short of the standard set by the rest of the menu. The wine list is concise but offers some interesting and well-balanced choices, while the service is efficient and to the point.

Overall, in his first restaurant venture in Athens, Ilias Kiazoli shows substance and a clear point of view, demonstrating that his television career has served as a springboard rather than an end in itself. The next step up in rating is within reach, once the cooking gains a little more maturity and embraces greater restraint.