Bucharest: A stroll through its restaurant scene

Created by the Union of the Principalities of Moldavia and Wallachia, Romania appeared on the world map in the mid-19th century. In its short life as a unified country, it was enslaved by conquerors, fought in two world wars and experienced various political regimes, taking the path of democracy in the early 90s, with an emphasis on economic progress, political and cultural development and the continued development of numerous other sectors, including gastronomy.

Notable among the city`s dining ventures is Kaiamo (presentation photo) by chef and restaurateur Radu Ionescu and his partner Cezara Tănase. The fine dining restaurant brings notable accolades to its quiver - it has been awarded "three languages" by the Gault & Millau Romania guide. It has been included in The World`s 50 Best Discovery list of The World`s 50 Best Restaurants and the French guide La Liste, in the "Outstanding Cuisine" category. After a seven-year stint in London`s renowned restaurants, the chef returned to his hometown and founded Kaiamo - a name derived from a compound of words from the country`s old dialect and expressing for him "the fear of mediocrity and the constant pursuit of the absolute". The sleek restaurant with its open kitchen is clad in concrete, metal and rescued wood - pieces of wood from old buildings, including schools and farms - while the mask that forms its logo comes from a custom in the Romanian north where masks were placed outside houses to ward off evil spirits. Through four seasonal tasting menus, ranging from nine stages to twenty, the chef aims to showcase the richness of his country`s landscape and flavours based on top culinary techniques, dish-specific concepts and personal experiences, including those acquired from his grandmother, who raised him and played a crucial role in "shaping his palette" "in terms of great food and unique flavour combinations," as he told me.

On the fifteen-stage menu that I tried, my standouts were the iconic egg with carrot mousse, cauliflower mousse and crispy chicken skin, which added a nice saltiness to the dish, the snail with gnocchi, red cauliflower, mushrooms, cream of peas and tea enhanced with vegetables and mushrooms and the beautifully flavoured octopus with carrot puree, orange and tangerine caramel sauce and sesame mustard sauce. The potato stew stole the show in three different textures (including velvety foam and crispy biscuit), a delicious creation of the chef based on a traditional recipe of Romanian cuisine. The wine pairing features remarkable wines from different regions of the country.

Built in the Brătianu family`s old mansion courtyard, Sera Eden is a lush oasis of relaxation in the centre of the Romanian capital - a substantial gravel-covered courtyard, a glass and steel hall and wooden tables embraced by lush vegetation. On the comfort menu, the flavours are international, with dishes such as the beautifully spicy roasted corn with parmesan, chilli and coriander; the collection of cold starters, including aubergine salad and Moroccan salad with tomatoes, cucumber and olive oil; and the beef tacos.

Comfort, but with an emphasis on modern Romanian cuisine, are also the flavours at Bucătăria Local Food restaurant. Its wood-lined courtyard is surrounded by plants and a wooden fence adorned with empty wine bottles. At the same time, the colourful mural on the outside wall blends nicely with the earthy colours of the salon, creating a pleasantly intimate atmosphere. The menu is based on seasonal, local produce and traditional recipes with creative twists. The dishes I sampled included braised lamb pastrami with polenta and horezu cheese and the fried potatoes with eggs, grated ibanesti cheese and mutton sausages seasoned with chilli peppers and garlic - although the use of pre-fried potatoes was disappointing, the eggs were fragrant, and the sausages were beautifully spicy. The meal`s highlight was the exuberant papayas - a traditional doughnut-like dessert - with cream and homemade raspberry jam. And, on weekends, dishes are added to the table and shared by the group. The menu also includes several apt suggestions for pairing the food with local wines.

In the bustling Queen Elizabeth Avenue, the Mom of chef Toni Godeanu and Răzvan Buruiană, Claudia Becea and Andrei Vintilă moved in October 2021. Quality and simplicity are essential elements of the restaurant`s philosophy. Its simple, light-wood-clad saloon, open kitchen and elegant courtyard with its shades and well-tended plants bring a Scandinavian breeze to Bucharest. The flavours on the menu are predominantly Italian and Mediterranean, but there is no shortage of international influences. On the dishes, the musabaha with nuts and tomato oil served on a handmade pita had pleasant flavours. However, the amount of oil was more than it should have been. The mom`s burger with gochujang sauce had a well-done patty and fluffy handmade milk bun, but the menu did not promise the spicy notes.

In Bucharest, beyond the food, the emphasis is on cocktails and wines, especially those produced in Romania. In the modern courtyard of Yuppies Café & Wines, local wines have their place. They are paired with regional dishes such as mititei, the Romanian beef kebab, with no shortage of choices in pizzas, pasta and Middle Eastern-influenced dishes such as falafel with tahini sauce. Created by five wineries from the Dealu Mare wine region, The Great Hill indulges in wine tasting and pairs wine tasting with various charcuterie and cheeses. The Vault Bar at the prestigious The Marmorosch Bucharest, Autograph Collection hotel is undoubtedly unique, where the former vault of the Marmorosch Blank Bank, with its bank vaults and imposing armoured door, has been transformed into a bar for cocktails and spirits.

Concept stores also appear in the Romanian capital, with a standout among them being Ioana Voloaca`s ESHTE Shop & Café. An art historian, Ioana Voloaca restored Ghina House - a beautiful 1938 art deco building in the heart of Bucharest. During the work, she realised that she wanted to work on promoting her hometown through a concept store that would combine the country`s heritage with contemporary ideas and showcase the talent and creativity of Romania today. Thus, ESHTE (from românește meaning "Romanian" or, in Romanian, substance) was born and installed in part of the now-renovated historical building. By expertly marrying rustic, industrial, and modern elements, Ioana Voloaca has created an exquisite and, welcoming, warm space. Through exclusive collaborations with Romanian producers, artists, traders and companies, ESHTE offers Origo speciality coffee, three varieties of Olovina beer - Pils, Amber Ale and India Pale Ale - in the ground floor lounge, signature cocktails and traditional sweets such as cherry loaf and glazed cake, while on the first floor products are abundant, always with local labels - including clothing and decoration, perfumes, jewellery, ceramics and candles. This autumn, ESHTE will have a sibling in a new location in Bucharest, where the repertoire will include small traditional dishes and a space for cultural and educational events.

Info:

- Kaiamo, Strada Ermil Pangrati 30A, tel.: +40 722 202 204

- Sera Eden, Strada C. A. Rosetti 37, tel.: +40 31 229 9300

- Bucătăria Local Food, Strada Ion Slătineanu 30, tel.: +40 755 551 245

- Mom, Bulevardul Regina Elisabeta 28, tel.: +40 31 229 5089

- Yuppies Café & Wines, Strada Ceasornicului 6, tel.: +40 744 431 432

- The Great Hill, Strada Doctor Louis Pasteur 6, tel: +40 759 480 480

- Vault Bar, The Marmorosch Bucharest, Autograph Collection, Strada Doamnei 2, tel: +40 37153 3100

- ESHTE Shop & Café, Strada Doamnei 15, tel.: +40 765 784 705

*Photos: Anna Tasioula