About ten months ago, I must admit I greeted the opening of Atelier Papaioannou—the excellent, FNL-starred restaurant—in the Spyromiliou Arcade with a degree of scepticism. Much as I love that particular arcade, no restaurant has ever truly managed to thrive there. A decade ago, the Ioannidis brothers tried with the very good City Bistro. Four years later came the Christofileas brothers with the superb Japanese Senta. And last year, Atelier Papaioannou gave it a go—without success.
Now it seems Atelier Papaioannou is moving north to Neo Psychiko, taking over the space previously occupied by Maison Colette. It’s a smart and well-judged move, especially as Maison Colette heads even further north to Kifisia—an elegant suburb that has long appreciated classic French cooking, particularly when it takes the form of a well-executed Chateaubriand or entrecôte Béarnaise with crisp, golden fries.
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