The reappearance of Yiannis Hatzis after many years brought me face to face with a remarkable red and a disappointing rosé, both of which have been featured in this column.
I saved Dodekatos (X!!) for last, a Blanc de Noir made from Xinomavro, also from Amynteo. I thought, `Let’s save the best for last,` and this expectation was based not on a hunch or some metaphysical calling, but rather on experience, as a similar endeavour had previously placed this chemical engineer on the wine map in the early 2000s.
Of course, X!! is radically different from his initial Blanc de Noir, with cultivated yeasts being replaced by indigenous ones and the stainless steel tank being replaced by a barrel, where the wine stays with the lees for 12 months.
Filled with curiosity, I poured the 2021 into my glass, which was not filled with golden hues but rather a pale yellow colour, remarkably lively for its four years of age.
The producer is in no rush to release X!!, and rightly so, as the bouquet is impressive in intensity and sufficiently dense. The barrel dominates, imparting intense smokiness and incense to the nose, followed by dried papaya and a sense of the lees. However, it`s the almond that steals the show, making its presence felt both as marzipan and as an orgeat syrup!
The acidity of a white wine-styled Xinomavro is always significant, but here it reaches remarkable levels, and combined with the intense flavour (which mirrors the aromas), it lends the wine qualities reminiscent of a great white Burgundy.
Serving the wine at 10-12°C in a medium-sized Stolzle Revolution Red glass provided a few extra quality points. If you`re pairing it, opt for something strong and flavorful. This could be lamb wrapped in parchment, a plate of juicy ribs, or for those with a taste for the sea, smoked salmon or pasta with bottarga.
Yiannis Hatzis with X!! has taken the white vinification of Xinomavro to another level. Although still quite young, this remarkable wine—very well priced at €14—manages to strike an incredible balance between oxidation and freshness, supported by incredible verve. If you find orange wines too coarse, conventional whites dull, and good Meursaults expensive, then Dodekatos should not be your 12th choice but your first!
Rating: 8.5/10
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