Those familiar with quality knives likely know Damascus steel, renowned for its unique patterns reminiscent of black truffles. Here, the term "Damascus" relates not to a knife, but rather to the wine with its shared name, Damaskinos, and truffle-like characteristics perceived in aroma and not appearance.
This particular cuvée may not be the flagship offering of the Naoussa wine cooperative, which was established in 1983 by 330 local growers. However, the label, first released from the 1994 vintage, is crafted from carefully selected grapes. Vaeni has no shortage of high-quality raw material to choose from, as it manages half of Naoussa`s PDO zone. Damaskinos wine is aged for 18 months in barrels, followed by an additional six months in the bottle, completing the winemaker`s careful process.
In many countries, cooperatives represent the traditional side of terroir expression, and Vaeni is no exception. The ruby red colour of Damaskinos, filled with brownish hues, contrasts the almost purple shades of some modern Xinomavro wines.
Similar characteristics are evident on the nose, which is dominated by sun-dried tomatoes, dried mushrooms, sweet cherries, spices, sage, and earthy notes. Although these elements may seem impressive, the bouquet is somewhat undefined, allowing the palate to take center stage. And what a performance it delivers! The harmonious sweetness, relatively low acidity, and well-integrated (for Naoussa) tannins create excellent balance and contribute to an almost velvety finish. The flavour is notably strong, while the aroma on the palate is more vibrant than that on the nose.
Interestingly, the classic Pinot Noir glass doesn`t enhance this wine as one might expect; instead, a Burgundy Grand Cru glass infuses it with a touch of "modernity." For a more traditional expression, consider a medium-sized closed tulip glass, but be sure to serve it at the ideal temperature of 13-15°C. Additionally, pairing it with earthy ingredients is key; dishes such as a fillet with wild mushrooms, truffle risotto, or lentil sausage work wonderfully.
Damaskinos is not only an outstanding wine but also offers exceptional value, with a price of 13€ making it a must-have PDO selection. While the old-school approach may seem slightly old-fashioned, when executed correctly, it exudes a charm that modern winemaking often shies away from. Damaskinos encapsulates this, delivering a "plum" delight that captivates the senses.
Rating: 8/10.
Damaskinos Naoussa by Vaeni is available from House of Wine
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