Sitting at the large bar overlooking the open kitchen, we enjoy two glasses of Viognier and admire the three cast-iron ovens lined up like soldiers, ready for battle. M. goes crazy when he hears a song by "The Smiths" playing on the speakers, and I shyly dance to the beat.
The Japanese Caeser`s salad arrives at our table first, with coarsely chopped lettuce, radish, panko (hence the name), secret sauce, and freshly grated Parmesan. It`s just the thing to start with, but the simultaneous arrival of the garlic bread steals the show! Made from slow-risen sourdough and cut into thick strips, it`s spread with clarified butter and garlic oil, making our eyes roll in delight! Next comes the Korean Mac `n` Cheese, made with successfully handmade gnocchi. I don`t underestimate the difficulty of this particular "dumpling" preparation, as I`ve tasted gnocchi a few times without encountering that annoying "flouriness".The creamy sauce enveloping them, combined with the red pepper paste and gochujang (Korean chili paste), is reminiscent of grandma`s béchamel but with a "spicy" kick.
The most significant moment, however, is nowthe time to try the Marmite pizza topped with mozzarella, provolone, garlic oil, and a yeast overrun. The dough, baked in just a minute and a half and at a very high temperature (a hallmark of the Neapolitan philosophy), is thin and light. The bold combination of cheeses and the famous British `syrup` creates an intense flavour that`s hard to forget. Still, it doesn`t overshadow the protagonist, which, in my humble opinion, should always be the dough. The epilogue to our meal is a panna cotta that is anything but "prosaic". Dense and flavourful, it is made with mozzarella milk and served with miso caramel and a crumbled almond paste. However, the disproportionate amount of caramel does not do justice to the rich, milky cream that can stand on its own without this addition.
At the end of our evening at Lisa Athens, I observe a gentleman folding a slice of pizza with great care before taking a decisive bite. I wonder: Isn`t that what we do when we`re having a hard time? We "fold" introspectively, momentarily, making our action plan, and finally "bite" into our problems. We stay there stubbornly, bypass anything that gets in our way, and move on to the next "bite". In the end, whether good or bad, enjoyment is always left—the satisfaction of having done it, looking back at the empty plate of eaten pizza.
Info. Fokionos Negri 25, Kipseli, Phone: 2110156696, Open: Tuesday-Sunday 18:00-24:00, Price: €20-25 per person, excluding drinks
*Photo: Prokopis Economopoulos, LIFO
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