The annual showcase of Peloponnese producers, once again successfully organised by Winetuned and Vinnovasion, brought together 55 wineries and more than 500 labels, offering a comprehensive overview of the country’s largest vineyard.
Using my severe short-sightedness as a convenient excuse, I decided to narrow my focus and concentrate on single-varietal Agiorgitiko wines, having not revisited in some time the wide range of stylistic approaches made possible by Greece’s most widely planted indigenous red grape.
This was by no means an easy undertaking, however, as close to 70 Agiorgitiko labels were available for tasting. Of these, 23 earned, with greater or lesser ease, a place on the list that follows.
Athanasiou, Nemea Thronos 2024: I have never made a secret of my fondness for the wines of Michalis Athanasios, and the quietly spoken producer continues to justify it. Thronos is supple, buttery and persistent, yet still youthful. Give it another two years. (7.5/10)
Athanasiaou, Nemea Fysis 2019: Sourced from 65-year-old vines, this premium cuvée shows dense fruit, generous alcohol and firm tannins. A cocoa nuance complements the fruit in a structured wine that will benefit from three to five years in the cellar. (8/10)
Bairaktaris Winery, Nemea Estate 2022: A model of consistency, this high-altitude Nemea from old vines. Classically scented with cherry and tarragon, it offers a generous palate, a slightly warm feel and a strong structure built on ample tannins. (7.5/10)
Barafakas Winery, Nemea 1st Athlos 2022: An impressively dense Nemea from Koutsi, aged in both barrel and amphora, achieving the rare balance of firmness and softness. It also delivers good length and an expressive nose of damson plum and pomegranate. (7.5/10)
Boubas Winery, Klarakia Red 2025: A very pleasing first encounter with the winery from Agios Vasileios, despite its 30-year history, particularly as it included wines such as this vibrant, high-acid Agiorgitiko, packed with redcurrant aromas. (7.5/10)
Gaia Wines, Nemea Agiorgitiko by Gaia 2024: An impressive Agiorgitiko marked by striking herbal notes of tarragon and nettle. Juicy yet decidedly dry, with pronounced flavours of lemon thyme and a length that should carry it to its peak around 2030. (8/10)
Gofas Winery, Nemea Reserve Themelio 2025: Its stablemate Vasilio delivers everything in greater measure, yet Themelio, layered with eucalyptus and weighty floral notes, edges ahead in a photo finish thanks to its fine tannins and outstanding balance. (8/10)
Driopi Winery, Nemea Reserve 2024: Giannis Tselepos in fine Nemea form, with the “entry-level” Driopi outperforming many premium Nemea wines, though not his own. Cherry-led and initially supple, it gradually unfolds power, tannic structure and a sweet-and-sour wild edge. From 2029 onwards. (8/10)
Driopi Winery, Nemea Reserve 2022: Yes, it is tough, astringent and heavily oaked. Yet this cuvée counters with a dense nose of black fruit and liquorice, formidable body and a particularly long finish. Cellar for five to eight years. (8.5/10)
Lantides Winery, Nemea Ergo 2024: A Nemea from Asprokampos, matured for 14 months in French and Caucasian oak. Restrained on the nose, with discreet aromas of blackberry and red fruit, but it compensates with pleasurable roundness and a sense of calm on the palate. (7.5/10)
Lafazanis Winery, Geometria Agiorgitiko 2024: This fresh release from the producer in Ancient Kleones is low in intensity and somewhat dark in expression. Still, it delivers attractive flavours of pomegranate and ripe vanilla, along with a persistent finish. (7.5/10)
Mitravelas Estate, Nemea Red on Black 2024: For yet another year, this stainless-steel Nemea proves it is the finest of its kind. Brimming with cherry aromas, it is sufficiently concentrated yet supple, with an impeccable, buttery balance. Outstanding. (8/10)
Palivos, Nemea Ammos 2023: This premium cuvée proudly carries 15% alcohol and makes its presence felt warmly on the palate. That said, it does nothing to diminish the pleasure of its complex, dried-fruit bouquet and its sweet-and-sour palate. (8/10)
Papaioannnou, Agiorgitiko 2025: Every year, this supple, peppery tank-aged Agiorgitiko earns a place on my list. Relatively light in body, it expresses Nemea’s classic notes of cherry and sweet spices, while managing to feel thoroughly modern at the same time. (7.5/10)
Palivos, Nemea Old Vines 2020: Low in intensity on red fruit and cream, this wonderful all-time classic Nemea may appear understated on the nose. But what a palate it has: calm, velvety and sufficiently long to make it, once again, highly desirable. (8/10)
Parparoussis Winery, Epilegmenos Oinos Nemea Reserve 2018: Since 1994, the Patras-based winery has been producing this PDO Nemea from the vineyards of Gymno. The 2018 is supple, juicy and ethereal, with the nose seasoning the fruit with savoury, animal and faintly sanguine notes. (8/10)Sellas Winery, Throisma Red 2025: Once again, this cuvée from the higher altitudes of the appellation left me open-mouthed. Aromatically complex and austere on the palate, it will need at least a decade to fully absorb its tannins and acidity. (8.5/10)
Semeli, Nemea Reserve 2022: Twelve months in barrel followed by another year in bottle shape my favourite Semeli cuvée. A sophisticated nose of cassis and tobacco, ideal proportions of sweetness, acidity and tannins, and a refined finish. (8/10)
Skouras, Nemea Grand Cuvée 2024: The producer swears by barrel ageing, though the numbers do not quite add up. Still, who really cares when Throisma, pale in colour and expressive with aromas of damson plum and blackberry, is so beautifully calm and supple on the palate. (8/10)
Spyropoulos, Nemea Reserve 2019: A textbook example of typicity on the nose, with tarragon, plum and spice, from the Nemea estate. Slightly tannic, yet offering persistent flavour and a refined, subtly saline finish. (8/10)
Strofilia Winery, Nemea Black Cone 2022: Even if it is not currently at the glorious peak it reached some months ago, Strofilia’s cool-climate Nemea remains elegant, floral and precise in its tannins. Its true peak will arrive after 2030, so patience is advised. (8/10)
Tetramythos Winery, Agiorgitiko Nature 2025: Those wary of natural wines may wish to look elsewhere, as this Kalavryta cuvée flirts openly with rusticity. Devotees, however, will find lively, peppery fruit, beautiful tannins and impressive length. (8/10)
Troupis Winery, Fteri Agiorgitiko 2025: A cool-climate Agiorgitiko that ranks among the finest stainless-steel expressions of the variety. Dazzlingly juicy and light, it impresses equally on the nose with notes of unripe wild cherry and violet. (7.5/10)
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