I had heard a lot about Sumosan from friends who had tried it abroad—nine restaurants worldwide, with two more currently in the works, is no small feat. The particular location that opened just five days ago at the One&Only Aesthesis in Glyfada is the second in Greece; the first is in Crete, at Elounda Peninsula. So, my evening began with the best of intentions. However, I’d like to share a rather amusing—or, to put it as elegantly as possible, an incident— that occurred at the gate of the One&Only Aesthesis.
As we arrived by taxi at the resort’s main entrance, we were stopped by security staff with an expression that seemed to say, “You’re trying to smuggle cheese through Eleftherios Venizelos.” They asked for our name. I told them. They queried whether we had a reservation. I replied, “At Sumosan.” We waited. After a moment, I was delivered the most unforgettable line: “I got a no-show from Sumosan. There’s no reservation under that name.” I received a no-show. At a five-star resort. Their tone was so convincing that I double-checked my email to see if I had come on the wrong day. I told them, “I have the confirmation in my email,” and after two minutes, they returned with this blunt statement: “Go ahead, you’re okay.” Thank you. I’m pleased to be “okay.” But at that moment, the One&Only Aesthesis was not exactly feeling that way. Because sometimes, it doesn’t take much to ruin an impression. Just a “no-show” and a “you’re okay”—said at the wrong moment, with the wrong tone, by the wrong person. And somehow, something that was built to be memorable ends up exactly that. Just not in the way you expected.
Fortunately, Sumosan continues to operate under a different set of codes. Indeed, the setting is breathtaking, especially as the sunset casts its glow. Wherever you look, beauty flows: on one side, a sea turning shades of red, and on the other, a remarkably beautiful resort, both architecturally and aesthetically.
As for the food: it was only the second day of opening, so I wasn’t there to critique or to be overly critical of any missteps. Overall, the food is quite respectable, and I expect it will be even better within less than a month. The ingredients used are of high quality, and the Japanese fusion combinations in the dishes are quite intriguing.
Although there were some minor flaws—mainly in the pacing of the service and small details in the dishes—it wouldn’t be fair to focus only on these. The staff is very courteous and eager to assist, though visibly somewhat uncoordinated—a situation that seems more like a matter of time and familiarity rather than a deeper issue.
We will certainly revisit and provide a full critique in the future. However, even during this first visit, I singled out two or three standout dishes: a bold and tastefully daring carpaccio of sea bass with intense flavours; the salmon taquitos; their light beef gyoza; and a very good sando with exquisitely cooked meat — an indulgent wagyu. I will definitely return to try more dishes.
As I left, I thought that Sumosan appears to have all the ingredients to succeed. Does it just need time? Certainly, but it has already made a promising start. And likewise, the One&Only has all the potential to become a symbol of high-end hospitality in Athens. It just needs to remember that in such places, the smallest details are not merely important—they are ultimately the only thing that matters.
Info: One&Only Aesthesis, Poseidonos Avenue 110, Glyfada |Tel: +30 216 6861000
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