Those who arrive early, which is not something I often manage, enjoy the advantage of choice. I found a table in the small alcove I have always liked and, in the few minutes before my friends arrived, I allowed myself to be carried away by the excellent music selections of DJ Manolis Chatzimanolis. At the same time, I continued to observe the space around me, still unable to pinpoint the changes that had been made to the décor. I simply felt that something intangible was lifting my mood. In the meantime, the others arrived and I put the thought aside for a while.
A most courteous gentleman named Nikos, who made such a good impression that I felt compelled to ask his name, promptly came over to take our order. Whenever needed, he described certain dishes to help us choose a wine and, at the same time, seemed to anticipate our wishes with remarkable discretion.
The bread arrived first. And what bread it was. A warm, fluffy focaccia with a crisp crust that almost recalled pizza, accompanied by a small bowl of colourful cherry tomatoes that were full of flavour, an unexpected pleasure in the depths of winter. What was striking was how different, yet equally delicious, those same tomatoes tasted when they later appeared alongside the burrata, served with basil pesto and pickled onion.
I will linger a little longer on the rest of the menu, designed by chef Alexandros Sofianos in collaboration with executive chef Dimitris Stamoudis, mainly to underline the fact that while their dishes remain firmly rooted in the classic and familiar, what we commonly refer to as comfort food, they are at the same time highly appealing and thoroughly satisfying.
We all began with a scallop, served in its shell and topped with a mussel sabayon, diced green apple and finely chopped shallots. We also shared a classic Black Angus beef fillet tartare with shallots, capers, cornichon, anchovy, egg yolk and a touch of cayenne pepper. The same spirit of sharing applied to the fried cheese-filled gnocchi, served with butter, sage, prosciutto and almond, accompanied by a Parmesan cream.
I must admit, however, that I could not resist stealing a few forkfuls of the linguine with the fish of the day. On that occasion it was sea bass, although fresh cod was also on offer. The dish was prepared with fish stock, ginger, samphire and a selection of aromatic herbs. I then did my best to remain faithful to my more restrained choice, a tagliata of Australian Black Angus striploin, grilled in the Josper and served with roasted shimeji mushrooms and fried polenta with truffle, Parmesan and a red wine sauce.
From this brief description, it becomes clear that while the dishes are rooted in familiar recipes, what truly sets them apart is, on the one hand, the quality of the ingredients and, on the other, that small but refreshing touch that elevates them.
By the end of the evening, we were all feeling genuinely happy. If one were to wonder what lies behind this sense of “happiness”, and ultimately behind the success of Malconi’s, I can offer an answer. Throughout the night, I found myself quietly noting its recipe, which I can now share. The entire team, from the kitchen and bar to the service staff and the DJ, is fully present and attuned, ready to listen to or even anticipate a guest’s wishes, and to make them feel truly cared for.
When this attentiveness is paired with food that is straightforward, free of unnecessary complexity yet genuinely delicious, with well-chosen wines or cocktails and music provided by a DJ who instinctively reads the mood of the room, everything falls into place. It also explains that subtle but unmistakable shift in atmosphere I sensed from the very first moment I walked in.
Info: Patriarchou Ioakeim 43 & Ploutarchou 23, Kolonaki, AthensTel: +30 210 724 8920
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