Gardening on Bordeaux’s Right Bank

Martin Krajewski, English-born and of Polish descent, is a widely travelled entrepreneur with a global outlook. Château de Sours, with its 60-hectare vineyard, once formed part of his portfolio. Its sale to Alibaba founder Jack Ma marked a turning point, opening the door to his deeper involvement in the world of fine Bordeaux.

With the proceeds, Krajewski acquired 6 hectares in Saint-Émilion and 2.2 hectares in Pomerol, laying the foundations for Clos Cantenac and Château Séraphine. Despite their relatively recent origins, in 2006 and 2016 respectively, both estates have experienced a remarkable rise in quality, prompting many critics to regard them as some of Bordeaux’s most exciting emerging names.

As one would expect, Merlot takes centre stage in both estates, while the range also includes a rosé and second wines. This may seem surprising given the modest size of the vineyards, yet it reflects, on the one hand, a clear pursuit of absolute quality and, on the other, allows for the gradual replanting of 35-year-old vines, alongside an increase in planting density.

That density is so high that it precludes the use of mechanical means, while the grapes, cultivated with the application of numerous biodynamic practices, are entrusted to the capable hands of Charlotte Krajewski. Following experience across four continents, she now oversees the winemaking direction of both estates.

Her time in Australia has, in many ways, shaped the character of the sole white in the range, L’Exubérance Blanc, first released with the 2022 vintage (8/10). This is the only wine not sourced from the aforementioned vineyards, but from a neighbouring parcel near Château de Sours. It is also one of the very few 100% Sémillon wines produced in Bordeaux, displaying a razor-sharp acidity reminiscent of the finest Australian examples of the variety. Although a portion of the wine is matured in oak, its taut structure largely absorbs any overt influence, while its profile clearly calls for at least five years of bottle ageing.

Like a number of Greek producers, the Krajewskis have recognised that Merlot, often perceived as inherently plush, can yield outstanding rosés, a point they prove convincingly with the impressive Élégance Rosé 2022 (8/10) and L’Exubérance Rosé 2025 (8.5/10). The former is vinified in 700-litre concrete eggs and displays the crystalline freshness typically associated with Provence-style rosés fermented in stainless steel. The latter, by contrast, benefits from partial oak maturation, combining texture and depth with notes of acacia honey and a vibrant redcurrant profile.

The red range opens with Petit Cantenac 2019 (8/10), which introduces a touch of Cabernet, both Sauvignon and Franc, alongside Merlot. Now at its peak, it offers an expressive aromatic profile of strawberry compote, lily and damp leaves, supported by a supple, well-balanced palate.

Clos Cantenac 2019 (8.5/10), by contrast, is a single-varietal Merlot that displays all the hallmarks one expects from a grand vin when set against a second wine: greater concentration of plum and black fruit, a distinct mineral edge, firm yet finely grained tannins, an intriguing saline finish and ageing potential of at least a decade.

Both Pomerol cuvées are matured for 12 to 14 months in 300-litre barrels and amphorae. L’Innocence de Séraphine 2023 (7.5/10) is, in a sense, true to its name, delivering modestly good performance, not least because it is a second wine from a challenging vintage. The nose shows hints of mint and blackberry alongside floral notes, while the palate is relatively short, soft and gently warm in character.

Château Séraphine 2022 (8.5/10), by contrast, produced in just 4,000 bottles, significantly raises the level of concentration, with fig and damp leaf notes shaping a complex aromatic profile. Though round and well-balanced, it avoids any sense of heaviness, thanks to a dry, controlled finish. Undoubtedly enjoyable now, it is equally certain to gain further complexity over the next three to five years.

Although the Krajewskis’ ventures on Bordeaux’s Right Bank are still relatively young, especially when set against the centuries-old history of many of their peers, their ambition is already clearly in sight. Yet seeing the goal and achieving it are two very different things. Only time will tell whether their two estates can rise to the Premier League of the world’s most renowned wine region.

Wines from Clos Cantenac and Château Séraphine are imported in Greece by Assagio (+30 693 744 3306).