Oenorama, North Panorama (Part 2): The Reds

Having decided to dedicate most of my visits this year to the vineyards of northern Greece, in the first part I showcased the whites and rosés that piqued my interest the most.
 
This selection was hardly random, as it leaves room for a multitude of reds — a category that undoubtedly excels in the northern part of the country. Even so, the list represents only a small fraction of the wines I tasted, as I estimate that I sampled over 250 red wines. Therefore, the suggestions that follow account for less than 10% of the total, showcasing a true elite worthy of enthusiastic recommendation for trying.

The top four wines that conclude this feature are a tribute to the wineries that managed to win me over with their efforts and the consistently high quality across their entire range.

Red wines

Alpha Estate, Xinomavro “Scantzoxoiros” 2022: The vineyard of the same name, situated at 690 metres, not only produces an excellent rosé but also a stunning PDO red. Light and bright with refreshing acidity, it unveils aromas of blackcurrant and strawberry. Best to open from the ‘28. (8/10)

Arvanitidis, Merlot 2023: The consistently reliable producer from Asko has traditionally offered a calm, tender Merlot. However, 2023 is a true fruit bomb with a full body and dense structure. A blockbuster red, perfect for the next five years. (8/10)

Argyrakis, Ati 2021: The impressive achievements of the producer from Veria cannot exclude a Xinomavro. His version is explosive in the bouquet, offering scents of wet leaves and plum, delightfully sweetish but also very firm. (8/10)

Vivlia Chora, Ovilos 2020: Consistent with a mature cellar style, this Cabernet Sauvignon features rich, dense fruit, abundant tannins, and typical hints of herbs and cedar. Relatively long, it will benefit from medium-term ageing of 3–5 years. (8/10)

Vogiatzi, Tsapournakos Celebratory 2019: The special bottling of the two best barrels of Tsapournakos marks the end of fruit ripening, with ink-like concentration, intense flavour, and great palate power. Act quickly! (8.5/10)

Grigoriadis, Barbera 2024: All three reds from Yiorgos Grigoriadis excel in length, concentration, and a fleshy palate. However, his cuvée from the Piemonte princess, Barbera, possesses that extra level of acidity which makes it especially desirable! (8.5/10)

Grigoriadis, Cabernet Franc 2020: Another superb offering from Greece`s most impressive new producer, with dense typicality reminiscent of hibiscus and grass, sitting on a medium-bodied, soft palate. A touch more acidity, however, would elevate it to the next level... (8/10)

Grigoriadis, Refosco 2024: The fact that this cuvée, made from the Refosco variety native to North-East Italy and matured in stainless steel, still delivers concentrated black berry and plum notes, a rich body, fine tannins, and a plush finish, is a testament to its quality. (8/10)

Thymiopoulos, Atma 2021: The overture in Thymiopoulos style is crafted with Xinomavro and Mandilaria. It offers an airy profile of cherry and violet, with impressively juicy fruit, a few sharp tannins, and remarkably reasonable pricing! (7.5/10)

Thymiopoulos, Gaia kai Ouranos 2023: An epic Naoussa that takes your breath away, exhibiting a bouquet of berries, violet, black pepper, and sandalwood. The palate is equally stunning, with fine integrated acidity, delicately woven tannins, and a long, lingering finish. (9/10)

Kikones, Ippéas 2018: Among the wines from the Thracian winery, I’ve always distinguished the Bordeaux-style blend Ippéas. The 2018 offers scents of ash, graphite, and camphor, along with a firm, medium-bodied palate. A harmonious wine in a wonderful phase. (8/10)

Lazaridis Kostas, Amethystos Red 2022: An impeccable blend of Cabernet, Merlot, and Agiorgitiko that sets an example for every producer. Its aroma combines graphite-like intensity with a juicy, vanilla-edged palate. (8/10)

Lazaridis Kostas, Amethystos Cava 2021: The exceptional Cabernet Franc is once again impressive, capable of aging up to 15 years. It fills the glass with notes of graphite and red-black fruits, balanced by a long, firm tannic structure. (8.5/10)

Kechrí, Genesis Red 2022: An excellent value given that many wines scoring 7.5+ in this list were omitted. The expressive, bold yet notably long (for the category) Genesis, priced at €8, offers precisely that. (7.5/10)

Kyr Yannis, Dyo Elies 2021: This classic blend from Yiannakohori has been notably tough in recent years. However, the 2021 supports its relentless tannins with remarkable length, a full-bodied profile, and a dense, expressive nose of asphalt and flowers. (8.5/10)

Magoutes, Xinomavro 2020: In my view, the `simple` Xinomavro often outperforms its more premium counterparts, and in a photo finish, it narrowly beats the excellent Parcel Selection. It offers an explosive nose of tomato, strawberry, and herbs, with a remarkable salty minerality and outstanding balance between old-school and modern styles. (9/10)

Nico Lazaridi, Golden Lion Cabernet Sauvignon 2023: This stainless steel-produced red can be found at a surprisingly affordable price. While it lacks intense concentration compared to higher-end examples, its good acidity and perceptible tannins give it a respectable length and structure. (7.5/10)

Noema, Epitome 2018: Beyond its exceptional range of Xinomavro, this producer from Amyntaio also excels with Cabernet Sauvignon. Rich in notes of sweet fruit and ham, Epitome is opulent, herbaceous, and filled with high-quality tannins. It can age gracefully for over five years. (8/10)

The Top Northern Greece Quartet of Oenorama

Kostas Lazaridis Winery: The Drama-based winery consistently leaves me pondering with every sip. Its steadfast quality is unmatched, a trait that becomes even more impressive considering the large quantities it produces for the domestic market. All of these qualities elevate it to one of the "greatest" among Greece’s finest…

Magoutes: If you haven`t delved into Magoutes’ wines yet, you are certainly missing out on something significant—not only in terms of northern Greece but in the broader context of the country’s viticultural landscape. The ruggedness and length of wines from this producer in Siatista are truly breathtaking, and hailing the best label remains a Gordian knot…

Grigoriadis Oinos: My impression that Yorgos Grigoriadis is the most noteworthy new figure in Greek wine not only persists but strengthens with each passing year. This winemaker from Halkidiki addresses the minor imperfections of his collection, led by dense, lush, and impressive reds — even if somewhat uniform in style.

Argyraiki Winery: Much has changed since my first encounter with the wines from this producer in Tripotamos, Veria. The work of the Smyrna-family is consistently impressive, now with no weak links in its range. Furthermore, the unbridled enthusiasm has been refined considerably, pushing their performance to even higher levels.