After almost three years, I returned to Eviva in Vokhaiko, Corinthia, where Giorgos and Dimitris Mavronasios continue to present their own highly sincere and compelling take on meat-centred dining. I clearly remembered my first experience there, as well as what I had written at the time, namely that Eviva would ultimately leave a stronger impression not only through imported cuts, but through its Greek identity, expressed in a properly cooked sheep and in flavours deeply connected to the place in which the restaurant stands.
That belief, that Eviva should invest in a deeper sense of Greek culinary identity, did not remain merely a thought. Over the years, Giorgos and Dimitris’s approach has matured and found its footing, and today it is clearly reflected in a menu that moves with confidence between tradition and international meat culture. Eviva remains a carefully run meat taverna, while at the same time keeping its compass firmly oriented towards outstanding selections of high-quality imported meats.
You should absolutely begin with the deeply satisfying lamb sweetbreads, what Giorgos likes to call the “caviar of the lamb”, served with precision and real respect for the ingredient. Crisp on the outside and soft and succulent within, they prove that Greek meat cookery is not defined solely by the so-called prime cuts, but also by smaller, demanding ingredients that few handle well.
Alongside them, the milk-fed lamb liver was a genuine pleasure, while the restaurant’s handmade sausage remains a staple of the menu, and rightly so. It is gently smoked, with a pleasing texture and well-judged seasoning. The grilled mushrooms were excellent too, absorbing all the robust, fire-kissed flavour of the grill. Here, I should also single out the perfectly cooked mutton chops, with beautifully caramelised fat and a deep, resonant flavour that speaks of both skill and confidence at the grill.
And then came the heavy hitters. First up was the prime rib from Snake River Farms, Wagyu 9+, with generous intramuscular fat and an exemplary texture. Little needs to be said here. The quality of the meat and the skill of the grilling speak for themselves. The second was a steak from buey pastuenco, cattle raised freely in the mountains of León, castrated at an early stage to develop rich marbling and a depth of flavour rarely encountered. With 99 days of dry ageing, the meat arrived with pronounced character and a concentrated, lingering savouriness that truly stood out.
Eviva’s wine cellar has real interest, breadth and personality, with a strong emphasis on Greek labels alongside carefully selected international bottles, always chosen with the restaurant’s meat-focused identity in mind. Nothing here is poured at random. Every wine has been considered and tasted first.
This is Eviva today: a restaurant that has found its rhythm. It holds on to its character, respects its raw materials and never pretends to be something it is not. And as time goes by, it continues to improve. That, particularly outside Athens, is far from a given.
Info: Vokhaiko, Corinthia, Greece
Tel: +30 27410 56531
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